Coloane: Where Time Moves Slowest in Macau
Coloane is Macau's southernmost island, connected to Taipa through the Cotai reclamation area, but it retains a pace of life completely different from Cotai. No large casinos, no resorts—just Portuguese-style villages, a fishermen's wharf, pristine beaches, and a few restaurants that hold a crucial position in Macau's culinary landscape. Coloane is an essential destination for understanding Macau's "other side."
Lai Chi Vun: The Abandoned Shipyard Forgotten by Time
Lai Chi Vun Shipyard is the most visually striking location in Coloane, situated on the north-western coast of Coloane. Since the mid-20th century, several wooden boat yards operated here, and during its peak, it was the lifeblood of Macau's fishing industry. As the fishing industry declined, the shipyards were gradually abandoned, leaving behind skeletal wooden frames and iron-clad workshops. Against the backdrop of blue skies and seawater, they form a surreal landscape that has recently become Macau's most popular spot for photographers and creative types.
Some shipyards in Lai Chi Vun still maintain manual boat repair activities, representing the final remnants of traditional wooden boat construction craftsmanship. Simple walking trails around the area allow for close observation of the abandoned vessels' details. The optimal photography times are early morning and dusk, when the light is soft and foot traffic is minimal. Han Kee Coffee (Lai Chi Vun Road) is Coloane's most authentic local coffee shop, serving hand-beaten coffee with pork chop buns—a perfect spot to refuel after visiting the shipyards.
Coloane Village Centre: The Culinary Heart of a Portuguese-Style Small Town
Andrew's Bakery (Birthplace of the Egg Tart)
Address: 1 Rua do Estádio, Coloane Village | Official Website: lordstow.com
On 15 September 1989, British man Andrew Stow opened a European-style bakery in Coloane and invented the prototype of Macau's Portuguese egg tarts by combining Portuguese-style custard tart shells with English custard. This original shop in Coloane is the birthplace of global egg tart culture and continues to be run by the founder's family. The original shop has more historical character than the Taipa or Cotai branches; queuing is common but well worth it. The egg tarts are made fresh to order, and it is recommended to stand at the shop entrance to eat them, to experience the optimal temperature and pastry texture.
Portuguese Snacks and Coffee in Coloane Village Centre
The small square in Coloane Village (in front of St. Francis Xavier Church) is surrounded by several cafés and light bites venues, serving hand-brewed coffee, Portuguese-style toast and light bite platters. One rooftop café is renowned for its panoramic views over Coloane's old red-tiled buildings, making it ideal for an afternoon tea visit, best combined with a stroll around Coloane Village Centre.
Traditional Cantonese Restaurant Beside St. Francis Xavier Church
Coloane Village Centre is home to a traditional Cantonese restaurant that has stood for over seventy years, located beside St. Francis Xavier Church. The signature dish is the limited-availability tangerine peel duck, which takes more than ten hours to prepare; the duck meat is tender and flavourful, with the tangerine peel fragrance permeating every strand of meat. Seafood dishes such as stir-fried clams in black bean sauce and shrimp and egg stir-fry are also recommended. It is advisable to telephone ahead before lunch to reserve the tangerine peel duck, as it is likely to sell out otherwise.
Hac Sa Beach: Coloane's Most Important Food Destination
Restaurante Fernando
Address: 9 Hac Sa, Coloane, Hac Sa Beach | Style: Portuguese Family Cuisine
Fernando is one of Macau's most famous Portuguese restaurants, far from the hustle and bustle of the Cotai resorts, tucked away in a red-brick cottage beside Hac Sa Beach. It features a unique dining atmosphere with plants surrounding the venue, nostalgic décor, and outdoor seating. The restaurant covers over 3,000 square metres and offers ample outdoor space. Must-try dishes include suckling pig (which must be ordered one day in advance), bacalhau balls (Bolinho de Bacalhau), roasted pork knuckle, garlic clams, and Portuguese green soup. Fernando does away with elaborate plating, succeeding instead with fresh ingredients, generous portions, and reasonable prices (MOP250–400 per person). After your meal, it's just a two-minute walk to Hac Sa Beach, making this one of the few places in Macau where you can combine a beach experience with authentic Portuguese cuisine.
Important Note: Fernando opens at 12:00 and does not accept advance telephone reservations (first-come, first-served). During peak season (weekends and public holidays), it is advisable to arrive before 11:45 to join the queue. The suckling pig must be reserved by telephone the day before.
Hac Sa Barbecue Culture
The barbecue stalls beside Hac Sa Beach are an essential part of weekend activities for local Macau families, focusing on charcoal-grilled chicken wings, pork belly, and kebabs, with the smoke drifting across the entire beach. This "barbecue meets beach" culture is highly distinctive to Macau and cannot be found anywhere else. The crowds on peak weekends are considerable; it is advisable to visit on weekdays to enjoy a quieter version of the experience.
Complete One-Day Itinerary for Coloane
| Time Slot | Location | Activity |
|---|---|---|
| 09:00–10:00 | Lai Chi Wan Shipyard | Best morning light, photograph abandoned boats, explore fishing heritage site |
| 10:00–10:30 | Hon Kee Coffee | Hand-beaten coffee + pork chop bun refreshments |
| 10:30–12:00 | Coloane Village Town Centre | St. Francis Xavier Church + Lord Stow's egg tarts (to eat on the spot) + village walk |
| 12:00–14:30 | Fernando's Restaurant | Formal Portuguese lunch (fried bacalhau/garlic clams/roast suckling pig) |
| 14:30–16:30 | Hac Sa Beach | Post-lunch walk + observation of black sand's distinctive geology |
| By 17:00 | Coloane Village | Rooftop café afternoon tea, overlooking red-tiled buildings |
How to Get to Coloane
From Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro (New Road) on the Macau Peninsula, take bus 26 to Coloane Town. The journey takes approximately 40–50 minutes and the fare is MOP8.5. From Cotai (Galaxy/City of Dreams), take bus 26 for approximately 20–25 minutes. Taxis from the Peninsula cost approximately MOP80–100, and from Cotai approximately MOP40–60. Coloane has public car parks, so driving is also convenient. It is strongly recommended to allow half a day to a full day, as Coloane is not suitable for a rushed visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a reservation for Fernando's Restaurant? What time is best to arrive?
Fernando's does not accept telephone reservations (except for suckling pig, which must be booked one day in advance). They operate on a first-come, first-served basis. The restaurant opens at 12:00. During peak season (weekends and public holidays), it is recommended to arrive before 11:45 to join the queue. Weekday lunchtimes generally have shorter waits, but it is still advisable to arrive before 12:00.
Where did the Macau Portuguese tart originate?
The Macau Portuguese tart was invented by British national Andrew Stow in 1989 in Coloane. The original Lord Byron's Bakery shop in Coloane town is the birthplace of the Portuguese tart worldwide. It is recommended to eat them freshly baked at the original shop to experience the most authentic puff pastry and custard flavour.
Is entry to the Lei Cheng Uk Shipyard free? What are the best times for photography?
The Lei Cheng Uk Shipyard area is open free of charge with no admission fee required. The best times for photography are early morning (07:00–09:00) and dusk (17:00–18:30), when the light is soft and there are fewest visitors. Some shipyards still carry out repair work, allowing you to observe traditional wooden boat craftsmanship up close.
How long does it take to get to Coloane from Macau's main attractions?
From Peninsula's Nova City Avenue (Rua Nova), bus number 26 takes approximately 40–50 minutes to Coloane town, with a fare of MOP8.5. From Cotai (Galaxy/Melco New Paradise), bus number 26 takes approximately 20–25 minutes. Taxis from the Peninsula cost approximately MOP80–100, and from Cotai approximately MOP40–60.
Is a day trip to Coloane worth it? What are the main sights and food?
It is definitely worth it. It is recommended to allow half a day to a full day. Main itinerary: Lei Cheng Uk Shipyard (photography) → Coloane Village (Andrew's egg tarts + St. Francis Xavier Church) → Lunch at Fernando's (suckling potato/bacalhau balls) → Hac Sa Beach (stroll) → Rooftop café for afternoon tea. It is one of the few places in Macau where you can experience history, nature, and authentic Portuguese cuisine all in one visit.
